Sewing-machine



J. R. MOFFATT.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY 13, 1917.

1,352,675 Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

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SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 1.3, 1917.

1 ,352,675. PatentedSept. 14, 1920.

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J. R. MOFFATT.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY 13, 1917.

1,352,675, Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

J. R. MOFFATT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 13. 19!].

1,352,675, PatentedSept. 14, 1920.

TSHEETS-SHEET 4.

J. R. MOFFAVTT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 13, 1917.

1,352,675, Patented Sept. 14,1920,

7 SHEETSSHEET 5- 3mm mtoz J. R. MOFFATT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 13, 1917.

1,352,675. Patented Sept 14, 1920.

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M WW Qfto: nu s J. R. MOFFATT.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 13, I917.

Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

ISHEETS-SHEET I.

fully UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES R. MOFFAT'I, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOB TO UNION SPECIALMACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

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Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 14, 1920.

Application filed July 18, 1917. Serial No. 180,371.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, James R. Morra'rr, a citizen of the United States,residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, ofwhich the following is a description, reference beinghad to theaccompanying drawing, and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machinesand more particularly to a sewing machine adapted to stitch an elastictape in a fabric pocket wherein the elastic tape may bestretched andtacked at certain points so that when released it will serve to gatherthe fabric sections.

An object a machine of the above character wherein the elastic tapeguiding means and the means for causing the tape to be stretched arecarried by the overhangin arm of the machine.

A further object of the invention is to provide an elastic tapestretching means of the above character with means whereby the same maybe controlled at operator and without stopping the stitching mechanism.

A still further object of the provide means for guidin a facing stripabove the elastic tape and a so a facing strip below the elastic tapefor forming from the facing strips and the fabric sections, a-

ocket for the elastic ta e.

A still further object of the invention is to provide guiding devicesfor s acing the fabric sections which are joine on the facing strips.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part behereinafter more disclosed.

In the drawin which show by way of illustration, one embodiment of theinvention:--- 7 Figure 1 is a front view of the front end of a sewingmachine having my improvements applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is a view partly and partly in vertical section, improvementsinvention is to in end elevation showing my of the invention is toprovide the will of the.

Fig. 3 is a view partly in end elevation and partly in vertical section,the section being taken through the overhanging arm and sectionallythrough the guiding device for the elastic tape;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but showing the elastic tapereleased from tension;

p 5 is an end view of a machine having my improvements applied thereto,certain of the parts being omitted for the sake of clearness and theguide for the elastic strip being turned to inoperative position;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 02-42? of Fig. 5, with the guidefor the elastic tape in the position shown in Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a plan view showing two fabric sections joined by facingstrips forming the pocket for the elastic tape, the elastic tape beingfree from tension so that the stitches penetrate the same;

Fig. 8 is a similar view but showing the tape stretched so that thestitches do not penetrate the same;

Fig. 9 is a transverse sectional view through the parts, as arranged inFig.7

and

Fig. 10 is a transverse sectional view through the parts, as arranged inFig. 8.

The invention consists broadl in a sewing machine having suitable stitcing mechanism for forming a plurality of rows of independent lines ofstitching. Means is provided for guiding two fabric sections to thestitching mechanism with their edges spaced.

Means is also provided for guiding a strip beneath the fabric sections,and another strip above the fabric sections, the strips beingjoined'together and to the fabric sections respectively by lines ofstitching- The upper strip guiding device is carried by the overhangingarm. An elastic tape guiding means is also carried by the overhangingarm and this elastic tape guiding means is provided with a tension shoewhich is yieldingly held against the tape so as to put a drag on thetape and stretch the same. The tape guiding means is so disposedrelative to one of the needles that when the tape is free from tension,the expanding of the tape will carry the same into the path of saidneedle.

While on the other hand, when the tape is under tension and stretched,it will be reduced in width so as to escape the needle and be free fromthe lines of stitching formed by the needle. This enables the tape to betacked at certain points and stretched between these points so that whenreleased it will gather the fabric sections. The means for placing thetape under tension s under control of the operator and the tension maybe released at will without stopping the stitching mechanism.

Referring more in detail to the drawlngs, I have shown in Figs. 7 to 10,inclusive, two fabric sections, indicated at F and F. These fabricsections are joined by two strips, one of which is indicated at S andthe other at S. The two strips are secured to the fabric sections F by aline of stitching 7, while the two strips .are secured to the fabricsections F by a line of stitching igs. 7 and 9 of the drawings it isshown as free from tension and the full width and positioned so that thelines of stitching F are being placed through the same. 7

In Figs. 8 and 10 of the drawings, the tape is shown as stretched and ofmuch lesser width so that the needle forming the line of stitching fescapes the tape.

The above is one use of my improved machine, and I have referred to thesame to aid in the description of the invention.

The sewing machine for carrying out the invention consists of the workoverhanging arm 2, in which a needle bar 3 reciprocates. The needle bar3 is reciprocated by a needle lever 4 which is connected to the needlebar by a link 5. The needle bar is provided with two needles 6 and 7.Cooperating with each needle below the work support is a looper 8 whichis carried by the looper shaft 9. These loopers move in a directionparallel with the line of feed and form with the needles two thread lockchain stitches. The lines of stitching are entirely independent of eachother. The material is fed across the work support by a feed dog 10 andthe material is held on the work support by a presser foot 11 carried bya presser bar 12.

The two fabric sections F and F are guided to the needle by two edgeguides 13 and 14 which direct the respective fabric sections F and F.These edge guides are so positioned that the edges of the fabricsections are spaced and the edges are directed so that they pass betweenthe needles and one fabric section is entered by one needle while theother fabric section is entered by the other needle. The work support 1is provided with an opening 15 up through which the fabric strip S isled. The guide 16 receives this strip S and folds in the edges thereofand directs the same under- ,21 is secured to an arm The elastic tape isindicated at E. In-

support 1, an,

neath the fabric sections F and F. The guide 16 is of the usualcharacter and is mounted on a bracket 17 secured by screws 18 to thedepending apron of the work support. The upper strip S is guided underthe presser foot 11 by a fabric guide 19. This fabric guide 19 has alaterally extending section 20 and a shank 21. This shank 22 by screws2323. The screws 2323 pass through elongated slots 24 and are threadedinto said arm 22. he strip guide 19 is constructed so as to fold theedges of the strip. The arm 22 is freelymounted on a rod 25. Said arm isattached to a split collar26 which surrounds the rod and a screw 27 maycause the collar to grip the rod 25 so that thearm 22 may be swung aboutthe rod 25 and supported in various positions. The rod 25 is mounted ina bracket 28 which is attached to the overhanging arm of the machine bybolts 29. Secured to the rod 25 is a fixed collar 30 which has adepending arm 31 lyin in the path of movement of. the arm 22. 'lhis arm31 serves as a stop against which the arm 22 rests, when the guide 19 isin normal position for directing the strip underneath the presser foot.

On the under face ofthe guide 19 is a second guide 32 for the elastictape E. Said guide has downwardly extending lips 33 and 34 between whichthe strip is guided. A tension shoe 35 is carried by a plate 36. Thisplate 36 is freely mounted on spaced pins 37-37 which are attached tothe extension 20 of the guide 19. A post 38 is threaded into this plate36. A spring 39 surrounds the post 38 and bears at one end against theextension 20 while the other end bears against a nut 40 on the outer endof the post 38. This spring normally presses the plate 36 toward theguide 32 and tends to hold Ehe shoe 35 pressed against the elastic tapeSecured to the overhan 'ng arm by the bolts 29 is a bracket 41. ivotedat 42 on the bracket is a lever 43. The free end of this lever,indicated at 44, is directly above the post 38 when the guide 19 is innormal position for feedingthe strip and the elastic tape underneath thepresser foot. A link 45 is pivotally secured to the other end of thelever 43 and this link 45 is in turn connected to the second lever 46pivoted at 47 to a bracket 48, clamped to the overhanging arm. Saidbracket 48 is formed with an upturned lip .49 adapted to engage the sideface of the overhanging arm 2, (see Fig. 4).,

turn is connected to the knee shift or foot treadle so that the lever 46may be depressed at its outer end without stopping the stitchingmechanism. A spring 53 is secured to the end of the lever 46 and to alug 54 on the front end of the overhanging arm. This spring serves tohold the front end of the arm depressed which raises the free end 44.

of the lever 43 and holds the same out of contact with the posts 38 orin the position shown in Figs. 3 and 5.

When the knee shift is operated or the lever 46 depressed, then thelever 43 is swung about its pivot 42 and the free end of this leverengages the post forcing the same downwardly, compressing the spring 39and moving the tension shoe 35 away from the elastic tape, as clearlyshown in Fig. 4 of the drawings. When in this position the elastic tapeis free from tension and will at once resume its normal position ofextreme width and the guide is so positioned that at this time theneedle will penetrate the tape.

As soon as the operator releases the knee shift the spring 53 willwithdraw the lever 43 from contact with the post and the spring 39 willforce the tension shoe again into con-, tact with the tape. This willput a drag on the tape and hold the same so thatthe feed of the sewingmachine as it feeds the tape and the fabric sections to which it isjoined will cause the tape to be stretched.

From the above it will be apparent that I join the two fabric sectionsby facing strips thus forming a pocket for the elastic tape and at thesame time securing the tape in the pocket, tacking the tape where thelines of stitching form the pocket at desired intervals and stretchingthe tape between these intervals so that when the tape is released thefabric sections will be gathered through the action of the tapereturning to its normal condition. By mounting the guide for the stripforming the upper portion of the pocket and also for the elastic tape onthe overhanging arm, I have freespace underneath the same for guidingthe fabric sections and for manipulating the same.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction may bemade without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth inthe appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is

1. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, anoverhanging arm, stitch forming mechanism, means for guiding fabricsections for forming a fabric pocket, means carried by the overhangingarm for guiding an elastic tape into said fabric pocket as it is beingformed, a shoe for engaging the tape for placing the same under tension,a plate supporting said shoe,

a post mounted on the plate, a spring sur rounding the post and normallyforcing the shoe against the tape, a lever carried by the overhangingarm and normally out of engagement with said post and means for movingthe lever to cause the same to engage the post and move the plate torelease the tape from the tension of the shoe.

2. The combination with a work support, a presser foot, an overhangingarm and stitch forming mechanism, a strip guide, an arm carried by theoverhanging arm and supporting said strip guide, said arm being freelysupported whereby the strip guide may be moved away from the presserfoot, a stop for supporting the strip guide with its delivery endadjacent the presser foot, an elastic tape guide carried by the stripguide and means for placing the elastic tape under tension at the willof the operator, said means being so constructed as to permit the stripguide and tape guide to be moved away from the presser foot.

3. The combination with a work support, a presser foot, an overhangingarm, stitch forming mechanism including two needles, fabric guides forguiding fabric sections with their edges spaced from the respectiveneedles, a strip guide for guiding a strip of fabric underneath thepresser foot for joining the upper faces of said fabric sections, asecond strip guide for guiding a strip of fabric for joining the lowerfaces of said fabric sections and means for guiding a piece of elastictape between the fabric sections.

4. The combination with a work support, a presser foot, an overhangingarm, stitch forming mechanism including two needles, fabric guides forguiding fabric sections with their edges spaced from the respectiveneedles, a strip guide for guiding a strip of fabric underneath thepresser foot for joining the upper faces of said fabric sections, asecond strip guide for guiding a strip of fabric for joining the lowerfaces of said fabric sections and means for guiding a piece ofelastictape between the fabric sections, said elastic tape guide being disposedso that when the tape is free from tension it will be entered by one ofthe needles and when said tape is stretched it will pass between theneedles.

5. The combination with a work support, a presser foot, an overhangingarm, stitch forming mechanism including two needles, fabric guides forguiding fabric sections with their edges spaced from the respectiveneedles, a strip guide for guiding a strip of fabric underneath thepresser foot for joining the upper faces of said fabric sections, asecond strip guide for guiding a strip of fabric for joining the lowerfaces of said fabric sections and means for guiding a piece of elastictape between the fabric sections, said elastic tape guide being disposedso that when the tape is free from tension it will be entered by one ofthe needles and when said tape is stretched it will pass between theneedles and means under control of the operator for placing the elastictape under tension at will.

6. The combination of a work support, a presser foot, an overhangingarm, stitch forming mechanism including two needles, means for guidingtwo fabric sections to the needles with their edges spaced, means forguiding and turning in the edges on a strip so as to connect the lowerfaces of the fabric sections, means carried by the overhanging arm forguiding and turning in the edges of a strip so as to connect the upperfaces of the fabric sections, an elastic tape guide carried by said lastnamed strip guide, said elastic tape guide being so disposed as todirect the elastic tape into the path of one of the needles when it isfree from tension and so as to direct said tape between the needles whenit is under tension and stretched, a tension shoe for engaging theelastic tape, a post for moving the tension shoe away from the tape, aspring surrounding the post and normally holding the shoe in engagementwith the tape, a lever carried by the overhanging arm independently ofthe stripguide and adapted to engage the post ,for moving the shoe awayfrom the elastic tape and means whereby said lever may be op erated atwill.

In testimony whereof, I aflix my signature in the presence of twowitnesses.

JAMES R. MOFFATT. Witnesses:

J. H. MASLAND, STEDMAN THOMAS.

